| Anyone seeking a little authenticity and local flair must | | | | (Comte Borrell, 81; 933 250 283; An outstanding spot |
| stray further afield than the touristy stretches along | | | | for good food, good portions, good vermouth, all |
| Las Ramblas. On the surface Sant Antoni, ensconced | | | | served with a good dose of rock'n'roll and jazz. After |
| between the Raval, the Eixample and the Poble Sec, | | | | a couple of visits, the waiters remember you and |
| seems like little more than a sleepy, residential | | | | then you're part of the family - a large family, given |
| neighbourhood. Young parents watching their kids as | | | | that Bar Ramón draws loyal followers from |
| they clamber on the monkey bars. Grandmothers in | | | | the neighbourhood, the city at large, even people |
| bright print house dresses chatting at the corner | | | | who have long moved away but make it a point to |
| store, a classic Spanish shopping cart in tow. Dog | | | | return every time they're in town. The tapas (very |
| lovers of all stripes strolling up and down Avinguda | | | | generous portions that make the term "tapas" a |
| Mistral with their canine companions. Groups of | | | | stretch) are simple, no-nonsense, hearty fare: patatas |
| teenagers with wildly gelled hair and trendy lip | | | | bravas (roasted potatoes with a side of spicy |
| piercings clustered around park benches. A good mix | | | | tomato-almond sauce), pimientos del padrón |
| of long time residents and new arrivals, Catalans and | | | | (small, green, spicy peppers), pulpo a la gallega |
| various international contingents. Just a few blocks | | | | (Galician-style octopus), bombas (deep-fried dumplings |
| from the Montjuic Park, the neighbourhood feels | | | | stuffed with potato and beef), cheese platters, |
| removed from the urban chaos of the city centre. | | | | enormous piles of pan con tomate the way it should |
| There is something deeply down to earth and | | | | be (bread, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, |
| authentic about Sant Antoni, a character trait that it | | | | topped with excellent olive oil, juicy tomatoes and a |
| shares with many of the excellent restaurants that | | | | pinch of salt). |
| line the streets of its modernist quadrants. | | | | Whereas superchef Ferran Adriá won over |
| Wandering through Sant Antoni in the early evening - | | | | food critics with orange foam, his brother, Albert, and |
| or on a weekend afternoon - is proof that tapas | | | | his partners turned to their grandmothers' cookbooks. |
| have not become the sole terrain of the tourist traps | | | | Rather than going the nouvelle cuisine route, they |
| on Las Ramblas, the overpriced fusion joints in the | | | | went about recovering old, classic recipes, collecting |
| Born or the anonymous chains along the Passeig de | | | | the best possible ingredients and sprinkling them with |
| Grácia. The "hora del vermut" is a Spanish | | | | a touch of imagination. The result: Inopia (Carrer |
| tradition seamlessly woven into the fabric of | | | | Tamarit, 104; 934 245 231; barinopia.com), one of the |
| everyday life in Sant Antoni, second nature to most | | | | most celebrated tapas restaurants in Sant Antoni, |
| locals and eagerly embraced by many who have | | | | which even caught the eye of the New York Times. |
| made Barcelona their adopted home. The classic | | | | It's hard to go wrong here, every dish is a delight, |
| "vermouth hour" is Sunday mid-morning, around 12pm, | | | | but their seafood and fish tapas are particularly |
| as a precursor to a big lunch with family or friends. | | | | outstanding. The only drawback of fame and |
| However, this delightful aperitif, accompanied by a | | | | excellence: the crowds. It gets very busy, and |
| few tapas, is also a great way to end the working | | | | reservations are only accepted for the restaurant's |
| day or begin a night out. | | | | one table, which seats 12 and comes with a tasting |
| Casa Jacinta (Tamarit, 154; 933 172 059) is a big local | | | | menu. The other option is writing your name on the |
| favourite. Located across from the Sant Antoni | | | | chalkboard and waiting for a spot at the bar (highly |
| market, a low-key sibling of the Boquería on | | | | recommendable) or along one of the long, white, tile |
| Las Ramblas, it is a popular meeting place, particularly | | | | ledges. The crowd is colourful enough to provide |
| for the weekend market crowd. The bar prides itself | | | | plenty of entertainment as you wait, and the food |
| on being an expert when it comes to the "vermouth | | | | and atmosphere at this perfect union of tradition and |
| hour." Customers get to pick from vintage | | | | modernity is definitely worth it. |
| vermouths, vermouth on tap, and wines from | | | | Lately, Inopia has been given a run for its place at |
| acclaimed regions like La Rioja, Ribera del Duero and | | | | the top by an unassuming spot a couple of blocks |
| Bierzo. The Spanish have a long-standing love affair | | | | down the street: Bohemic (Carrer Mansó, 42; |
| with tinned food, but make no mistake - they have | | | | 934 240 628). A small, family establishment with 6 |
| nothing to do with tuna or corn in a can. A tapa of | | | | tables and approximately 40 tapas, headed by chef |
| these fish and seafood delicacies or great Spanish | | | | Francesc Gimeno. Bohemic's reputation has grown |
| ham are perfect companions to a glass of red or | | | | steadily and quietly through word of mouth. The |
| white vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orange | | | | menu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new |
| or green olive. | | | | creations dreamed up by the chef: 15-20 traditional |
| The tradition of the classic "vermut" is a bit of a | | | | tapas - patatas bravas, chipirones (cuttlefish), |
| travelling sport, drifting from bar to bar until reaching | | | | croquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas - |
| the Sunday luncheon destination. Taking turns at | | | | asparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from |
| picking up the tab, however, can be extended to any | | | | scratch using only the best, freshest ingredients. And |
| hour of the day, and a great follow-up to Casa | | | | rumour has it that their house vermouth has gotten |
| Jacinta lies just across the street: Bar Ramón | | | | more than a few rave reviews. |