The Hidden Treasures of Sant Antoni in Barcelona

Anyone seeking a little authenticity and local flair must(Comte Borrell, 81; 933 250 283; An outstanding spot
stray further afield than the touristy stretches alongfor good food, good portions, good vermouth, all
Las Ramblas. On the surface Sant Antoni, ensconcedserved with a good dose of rock'n'roll and jazz. After
between the Raval, the Eixample and the Poble Sec,a couple of visits, the waiters remember you and
seems like little more than a sleepy, residentialthen you're part of the family - a large family, given
neighbourhood. Young parents watching their kids asthat Bar Ramón draws loyal followers from
they clamber on the monkey bars. Grandmothers inthe neighbourhood, the city at large, even people
bright print house dresses chatting at the cornerwho have long moved away but make it a point to
store, a classic Spanish shopping cart in tow. Dogreturn every time they're in town. The tapas (very
lovers of all stripes strolling up and down Avingudagenerous portions that make the term "tapas" a
Mistral with their canine companions. Groups ofstretch) are simple, no-nonsense, hearty fare: patatas
teenagers with wildly gelled hair and trendy lipbravas (roasted potatoes with a side of spicy
piercings clustered around park benches. A good mixtomato-almond sauce), pimientos del padrón
of long time residents and new arrivals, Catalans and(small, green, spicy peppers), pulpo a la gallega
various international contingents. Just a few blocks(Galician-style octopus), bombas (deep-fried dumplings
from the Montjuic Park, the neighbourhood feelsstuffed with potato and beef), cheese platters,
removed from the urban chaos of the city centre.enormous piles of pan con tomate the way it should
There is something deeply down to earth andbe (bread, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside,
authentic about Sant Antoni, a character trait that ittopped with excellent olive oil, juicy tomatoes and a
shares with many of the excellent restaurants thatpinch of salt).
line the streets of its modernist quadrants.Whereas superchef Ferran Adriá won over
Wandering through Sant Antoni in the early evening -food critics with orange foam, his brother, Albert, and
or on a weekend afternoon - is proof that tapashis partners turned to their grandmothers' cookbooks.
have not become the sole terrain of the tourist trapsRather than going the nouvelle cuisine route, they
on Las Ramblas, the overpriced fusion joints in thewent about recovering old, classic recipes, collecting
Born or the anonymous chains along the Passeig dethe best possible ingredients and sprinkling them with
Grácia. The "hora del vermut" is a Spanisha touch of imagination. The result: Inopia (Carrer
tradition seamlessly woven into the fabric ofTamarit, 104; 934 245 231; barinopia.com), one of the
everyday life in Sant Antoni, second nature to mostmost celebrated tapas restaurants in Sant Antoni,
locals and eagerly embraced by many who havewhich even caught the eye of the New York Times.
made Barcelona their adopted home. The classicIt's hard to go wrong here, every dish is a delight,
"vermouth hour" is Sunday mid-morning, around 12pm,but their seafood and fish tapas are particularly
as a precursor to a big lunch with family or friends.outstanding. The only drawback of fame and
However, this delightful aperitif, accompanied by aexcellence: the crowds. It gets very busy, and
few tapas, is also a great way to end the workingreservations are only accepted for the restaurant's
day or begin a night out.one table, which seats 12 and comes with a tasting
Casa Jacinta (Tamarit, 154; 933 172 059) is a big localmenu. The other option is writing your name on the
favourite. Located across from the Sant Antonichalkboard and waiting for a spot at the bar (highly
market, a low-key sibling of the Boquería onrecommendable) or along one of the long, white, tile
Las Ramblas, it is a popular meeting place, particularlyledges. The crowd is colourful enough to provide
for the weekend market crowd. The bar prides itselfplenty of entertainment as you wait, and the food
on being an expert when it comes to the "vermouthand atmosphere at this perfect union of tradition and
hour." Customers get to pick from vintagemodernity is definitely worth it.
vermouths, vermouth on tap, and wines fromLately, Inopia has been given a run for its place at
acclaimed regions like La Rioja, Ribera del Duero andthe top by an unassuming spot a couple of blocks
Bierzo. The Spanish have a long-standing love affairdown the street: Bohemic (Carrer Mansó, 42;
with tinned food, but make no mistake - they have934 240 628). A small, family establishment with 6
nothing to do with tuna or corn in a can. A tapa oftables and approximately 40 tapas, headed by chef
these fish and seafood delicacies or great SpanishFrancesc Gimeno. Bohemic's reputation has grown
ham are perfect companions to a glass of red orsteadily and quietly through word of mouth. The
white vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orangemenu is a curious blend of classic tapas and new
or green olive.creations dreamed up by the chef: 15-20 traditional
The tradition of the classic "vermut" is a bit of atapas - patatas bravas, chipirones (cuttlefish),
travelling sport, drifting from bar to bar until reachingcroquettes, etc.- and 15-20 creative tapas -
the Sunday luncheon destination. Taking turns atasparagus with foie, rabbit cannelloni -, all made from
picking up the tab, however, can be extended to anyscratch using only the best, freshest ingredients. And
hour of the day, and a great follow-up to Casarumour has it that their house vermouth has gotten
Jacinta lies just across the street: Bar Ramónmore than a few rave reviews.