Hampi - The Playground of the Gods

Introduction:this religious feeling may change over time. Man is a
Hampi is located in the Hospet town in Bellary districtcompulsive mythmaker. Myths have served as the
in Karnataka. It is famous for its extensive ruins ofambrosia that has helped man cope with uncertainties
the capital of the medieval Hindu empire ofapart from being a release mechanism. Ancient
Vijayanagara. It is spread over 25 square kilometersculture represented Gods, Goddesses, angels &
and is a virtual museum of Hindu religious culture.demons and symbols that arose from the collective
Palaces, Temples, Fort walls, civil buildings, tanks,consciousness as myths.
irrigation channels etc spread over in various stagesIndia as a geographical entity has always been
of preservation dot the landscape. The remains leavefascinated and mesmerized by religion and its
no doubt about the wealth and power of themanifestations - Gods and Divine beings. It has
Vijayanagara Empire. Only a powerful empire couldalways been a land of religion with its thoughts and
have had the resources to create what today lookslife always been guided by it. Hinduism has been
like an extensive open art gallery. Though in ruinscreative & at the same time fragmentive enough to
today, it is easy to understand the past grandeur ofgenerate offshoots of itself like Buddhism, Jainism
this city as one walks around the area.and Sikhism that ultimately became separate religions
With a large number of magnificently carved templesby themselves. Divisiveness being the fundamental
dedicated to numerous deities scattered all over, it ischaracter of Hinduism it created bifurcations of it into
the ultimate religious zone for the practicing Hindu. IfVaishnavism and Shaivism and also creation of many
there be Nirvana, One should obtain it here. Therecults.
are a plethora of Gods and celestial beings all overIndian religious system is characterized by plenty. It is
the religious and secular buildings. Ganesha, Krishna,an amalgam of god, religious writings and enormous
Vishnu, Mahishasuramardhini, Rama, Shiva andphilosophy, legends and superstitions. As in the case
Parvathy, every member of the Hindu pantheon isof all people, religion has played a primary role in
present here. Those days, this must have been theshaping the Indian psyche. In a veritable divine
most happening place for Gods. One can't touch andhypermarket, everybody had the choice to choose
feel the carved idols or the beautiful pillars withoutthe god that they wanted to worship designated as
experiencing a sense of awe & euphoria. DespiteIshta Devata. Gods seek total devotion and do not
deliberate vandalism by invading Islamic army andtake kindly to the presence of others. The believers
ignorance by the people of the land, it is nothingalso found themselves divided on the basis of the
short of a miracle that the temples and othergods that they worshipped. This fragmentation of
buildings survived another day. There must be verythe belief system also possibly contributed to the
few such beautiful places where the almighty mightlack of political unity that stopped us from presenting
actually want to reside. If there are Gods, I am sureunited fronts to invaders and resulted in slavery for
they might actually be quietly residing here. Hampimore than 800 years commencing 1192 with the
doesn't fail to evoke ecstasy and agony at the samevictory of the Afghans over Prithviraj Chauhan in
time.1192 at Tarain and ending with the transfer of power
Hampi & its association with incidents of Ramayana:by the British on the momentous night of 15th
Hampi has been from the ancient times, closelyAugust, 1947.
associated with the episodes of Hindu mythologyArchitecture-Human Aspirations in stone
giving it the aura of a holy land. The area in andArchitecture has always had special place in the
around Hampi are closely associated with Kishkindhahuman mindscape. It is nothing but aspirations of
(the monkey-kingdom). According to Hindu epicpersonalities or people in durable materials. In
Ramayana, the area was ruled by two monkeymonumental scales, it is a demonstration of power
brothers Vali and Sugriva. In a quarrel in which Valiand undertones of desire for immortality. It is
prevailed, his brother had to flee the region with hisapparent that a lot of resources both money and
minister Hanuman. They took refuge on the hillmanpower have gone into making Hampi the
Rishyamuka which was close to the ashram of Rishiplayground of the Kings and Gods. It's a lethal
Matanga on the mountain called Matanga Parvathammixture of passion & political ambition. As the first
(still called by the same name). Due to a curse placedcapital of the mighty empire, Hampi turned into a
on Vali by the Rishi he couldn't enter the space. Thissymbol of power. Thus, every ruler irrespective of
made Sugriva and Hanuman feel safe from Vali.the dynasty he belonged to added his piece of
Rama came looking for Sugriva when he heard thatdream to the jigsaw enlarging it and adding to its
he had some information regarding Sita's abduction.aura. Like religion, architecture continues to have a
Sugriva tells him that he had been witness to Ravanahold on our imagination.
carrying Sita in his celestial chariot and that she hadThus as A.H. Longhurst writes, "It is a mistake to
dropped some of her jewels and a garment asisolate architecture from its surroundings, because
evidence. Without possibly realising that he was beingthe main points of the physical geography, social
part of an epic drama, he collected them and placedprogress and historical development of any country
it in a cave (now called Sugriva's cave). He presentsrequire to be understood by those who would study
the evidence to Rama. In gratitude, Rama slays Valiand comprehend its particular style".
and enthrones Sugriva. Sugriva and his army of"The leading influences that may be expected to
monkeys go on to play the most critical role in theshape the architecture of any country or people are:
final rescue of Sita. The building of Rama-sethu or the(1) Locality with regards to its geographical,
Adams Bridge was facilitated by the large amount ofgeological, and climatic conditions; (2) Religion; (3)
rocks in and around Kishkindha. There is also a smallSocial and Political; (4) Historical; Important as all four
pond associated with Sita called Sita's pond nearbyof these are, the strongest is undoubtedly the
Sugriva's cave. So, technically as one walks aroundinfluence of religion. In almost all countries and in India
the region of Hampi and its mountains, one would bein particular, we find that the chief buildings are the
re- tracing the steps of the personalities ofoutcome of the nation's religious beliefs. Nothing
Ramayana.reveals the character of the nation so clearly as its
Vijayanagara-historic background:religion, and nothing has more permeating influence
Like Remus and Romulus who created Rome,upon its architecture".
Vijayanagara was founded by two brothers HakkaEven in the present times, the desire to create the
and Bukka. Vijayanagara Empire under the rule oftallest tower has dominated the race for excellence
various kings from different dynasties reached greatamong the most prosperous cities; be it the Taipei
heights of wealth and power. Hampi was the jewel101, Petronas tower or the Burj Dubai (to be the
of the Medieval Vijayanagara Empire-the last Hindulargest tower in the world once completed).
military and cultural bulwark against Islamic aggressiveArchitecture is about power projection. It is about
tendencies towards the southern parts of India. Oneprestige and it is about pride. If the need to dominate
of the finest empires of the world, it lasted for morethe masses and enthrall them with minimal military
than 200 years in full glory.action was the need of ancient and Middle Ages,
Its formation and extinction formed the part of athen the desire to impress & overwhelm seems to
strange cycle. The cycle begins with its formationfuel the building activities of today. While some cities
triggered by the Islamic invasions into the south, itsposition themselves as business centers, some as
collapse came when the neighboring Muslim armiescultural epicenters and others as holy lands-in all these
united to hand over the last king Rama Raya thecases the most common denominator is the
greatest military blow at the battle ofpresence of buildings. The buildings may broadly be
Rakshasa-Tangadi or Talikota in 1565 ending thedivide into two-Religious and Secular. The religious
cycle. Thus, the very set of factors that resulted inbuilding enveloping the sacred spaces of a people and
its formation resulted in the extinction ofthe idols in them were considered the source of
Vijayanagara.power of the ruler. This was one of the reasons why
If one needs to know a people, one needs tosacred places were the first targets for destruction.
understand their psyche. The psyche holds lockersDestruction of the temples destroyed the spirit of
that conceal the underpinnings of a people's mindset.the people directly affecting their ability to resist.
The human psyche formation being a constantDestruction and construction are two sides of the
process dictates the behaviour of people and alsosame coin. Lot of resources going in the construction
their response-stimulus system. The locus of theprocess, equal amounts go into destructing it. Both
human mindscape, psyche formation is a strategicare aimed at making powerful statements of power
process that emanates from the learnings of theand invincibility, no wonder the invaders spend in
past. The ruins of Hampi give us a glimpse ofexcess of six months focusing on destroying what
medieval Hindu psyche, its inner workings andhad stayed as the enduring symbol of the Indian
responses to various stimuli both positive andfreedom and prosperity. The fear psychosis
negative. The dominance of religion over people'sgenerated was so high that despite repeated
imagination is evident in every temple, every idol &attempts to repopulate it, Hampi remained nothing
carving. The chisels of expert artisans have left thebut destroyed symbol of a by gone era.
Gods and celestial beings seem like in a state of bliss.Conclusion:
Temples in India were not just sacred-spaces butReligion has played crucial roles in both construction
represented the religio-political locus. The communityand destruction. Somebody's fundamentalist is others
life revolved around it. If highly evolved art be aninfidel. The view is different depending on which side
indication of advancement of society, then theone stands on. Expanding ambitions have resulted in
Vijayanagara society was highly advanced. Withdestructive wars and when fought under the banner
classical aesthetic sense, the figures on the walls areof religion has a scintillating effect. It can turn the
life-like and well proportioned.most docile person into a motivated soldier of god.
There were various strategic considerations thatThe power of religion becomes apparent when
went into choosing Hampi as the capital of thecommon ideology formed the strong adhesive that
mighty Vijayanagara Empire. It was a secure locationbrought even the bitterest rivals together towards
with rugged hills on one side and the mightythe execution of a common objective. The Islamic
Tunghabadhra River on the other. Apart from thisstates of Bijapur, Golkonda, Ahmednagar and Bidar
the association of the area with mythical episodes ofthough were bitter rivals for political acquisitions, got
Hindu scriptures must have also played a vital role.together to form the Islamic sword arm against the
The rulers rightly expected legitimacy for their rule byHindu shield.
associating themselves with this holy land. ThisIn The battle of Talikota in January 1565 when the
association reflects on the symbiotic associationlast Vijayanagara king Rama Raya was symbolically
between religion and politics. By further creatingbeheaded, it overturned the leaves of History.
temples for the convenience of its subjects, the kingSoldiers at both ends were brave and motivated.
took a valid place among the pantheon of gods. TheWhat possibly added to the lethality of the Invading
temples are numerous. Some of them are Hazaarasoldiers was a powerful ideology that bound them as
Rama temple, Virupaksha temple, Vithala temple,one. With the defeat, the destruction of
Achutharaya temple, Chandrashekhara temple,Vijayanagara had just begun. The anger and
Ananthashayin Vishnu temple, Badavalinga temple,frustrations of the Islamic army did not seem to
Kadalekalu Ganesha temple, Laxmi Narayana monolith,have abated despite the convincing victory over the
Prasanna Virupaksha temple, Sashivekalu Ganeshastrongest unitary Hindu empire. When the victorious
temple, Ranga temple & the Yellamma temple. Theinvaders marched into the prosperous towns of
list goes on. Hampi thus offers a deep insight into theVijayanagara, apart from loot, pillage and rapine, one
Hindu mindscape of the times.of their core focuses was to destroy the beautiful
In Hampi, the two important factors that influence abuildings predominantly religious ones. An empire
people and dictate their lives- Religion & Architecturewhose beginnings have been ascribed to the Islamic
are in abundance.invasions, thus met its end again with the Islamic
Religion:invasion.
Religion is one of the most popular, easily understoodHampi is a metaphor for the passions, follies and
and widely accepted concepts. We can trace thelimitations of the human mind. It doesn't fail to remind
origins of religion to the pre-historic development ofone of the extremities of human capabilities.
man between 500,000 and 100,000 years B.C. ByComparable to Pompeii, Giza or Mesopotamia at
means of prayers and alleged miracles religion wasvarying times, Vijayanagara was the victim of the
the placebo that provided a sense of security andtoxic fumes of the unholy amalgam of religion &
comfort in this life and held the promise of splendorpolitics. The amalgam continues to exist and leaves its
after death for the believer. An ideal two-wayvenomous effects on the people. They continue to
transaction between the gods and man, religion hasinhale it without attempting to make a difference.
endured for many centuries. Death is the biggest fearMany secular institutions turned into ruins and our
of mankind due to its unknown nature and it wasfractured mental planes continue to accept them.
religion that provided comfort and answers to theMany years of invasions and destruction have
great mystery.naturally left deep the scars in our psyche. More than
Despite the fact that no empirical evidence availableever, we are divided by numerous religions. Physically
to endorse the basics of religion, what Karl Marx hastolerating each other, mentally we stand divided.
described, as the opium of the masses, hasEven today, centuries after deliberate destruction
continued to hold the masses across the world inthat was possibly the norm of the time, Vijayanagara
thralldom. Religious process is based on reversecontinues to be damaged by ignorance and
engineering-the more one tries to prove otherwise,neglect-by its own. By us. Hampi is not about the
the harder the belief becomes. One of the world'spast-It is about the present and our continued
most enduring & powerful ideas, it has shapednegligence of our history. When it comes to History
civilizations & dictated the destinies of nations.we believe -Ignorance is bliss. As a contradiction to
Religion by nature is a dichotomous concept. While itsour deep religiosity, close association of Hampi with
original function is to be inclusive, its intolerant natureRamayana & Mahabharata hasn't prompted the
makes it divisive. Membership drives a religion and themajority of us to understand, explore or protect
presence of other strong ones are a threat to anwhat is rightfully ours-heritage.
existing one. Most of the wars have been fought forSalvaging heritage is not an easy job. It requires the
religious considerations. The motivation of fighting oninvolvement of the common people that needs a
behalf of god has sent many soldiers to killchange in mindset. There are many such sites in India
mercilessly and die willingly on the battle field. As Basilthat will benefit from a little attention and resources.
King writes "Few of us do see a connection betweenIt's a part of the corporate social responsibility to
strength of spirit and strength of limb; but it is there".help regain and retain out past for the future. It is
It would be apt to say that all the happenings in theindeed our dharma to play a role in saving our
world thus have been influenced by man and godheritage-Sanjai Velayudhan.
acting in tandem. As history shows, religious faith &© Sanjai Velayudhan
belief can often prove to be a much stronger forceEndnote: The author would like your feedback-both
than considerations of pure self interest. Man isbouquets & brickbats.
incurably religious although the form and object of