Enjoying the Good Life in Nice, France

f Tesco and boring supermarket shopping? If you'reNice. There's as much emphasis on Italian food as
looking for the perfect antidote, plus a little winterFrench in Nice.
sun, take a trip to Nice, book an apartment and goAfter all, the city was Italian until the early 1860s
shopping for food in the famous Cours Saleya. Nicewhen the population voted to transfer to France.
was for years primarily a winter resort.Pasta, gnocci and pizza still feature strongly in
It was only in the 1920s, when the likes of Picassorestaurant menus, while dishes like soupe de pistou
and his friends started visiting the Riviera in summer,are closely related to the pesto and minestrone
that the world followed their example. Whilefound along the coast in Genoa and across Italy.
unbroken sunshine is far from guaranteed in theSeveral chapels and churches add to the attractions
winter months, the chances are you'll enjoy someof this vibrant part of the city while at the far end is
decent weather. The Cours Saleya is a huge, open-airthe Place Charles Felix and a large yellow-ochre
market right next to the sea front, sandwichedhouse, No1 Palais Cais de Pierlas. For years, the third
between the Promenade des Anglais and thefloor was home to Matisse, his paintings of Nice's Baie
atmospheric Nice Old Town.des Anges the views from his apartment window.
The Mediterranean Sea, and the palms that fringe theThe likes of Matisse and Marc-Chagall, both with their
resort's beach, can be glimpsed enticingly throughown museums in the nearby suburb of Cimiez, have
archways from the market itself. Anyone with themeant art is another key attraction in Nice - indeed,
slightest interest in good food, or people watching,the city has more galleries and museums than any
will think they have landed in heaven. The famousother French city outside Paris.
flower and vegetable market is held here fromIf you have any time to spare, try popping down the
Tuesday to Sunday each week, while Monday iscoast to Monaco. It's only fifteen minutes away by
given over to antique stalls. The space is lined withtrain but is always great fun. The Principality, for it is
shops and restaurants, ideal for sitting in the sunan independent country albeit less than a square mile
sipping a beer or coffee before slipping in to one ofin size, is in a beautiful setting; has the allure of the
the many restaurants for a meal of fish soup, a saladworld's most famous casino and is full of very rich
nicoise or other local speciality.residents.
The produce on sale in the market makes youIf you thought people watching was fun in Nice,
appreciate why food in France is so special. ThereMonaco will be a revelation. Try lunch at the
are seemingly endless displays of cheese, charcuterie,Café Rascasse on the famous bend on the
olives, herbs and spices and, on the fringes of theMonaco Grand Prix circuit. Spot the very rich
market, fish stalls with a quite stunning selection ofgentlemen taking their stunning 'nieces' out for lunch.
species. In the alleyways leading off in to the OldYou'll also have a very pleasant meal, happy in the
Town, you'll find small pasta, pastry and chocolatethought that your seat would have set you back
shops while others will provide luxury products like1,500 Euros on race day.
truffle oil and foie gras.So book that cheap flight to Nice now - Easyjet and
Watching the locals choosing their produce with suchRyanair have a wide choice, or even jump the train
care is a delight in itself. Everything is sniffed at,via Paris. It's a trip you'll want to repeat every winter
examined minutely and discussed with the stallwhen a little sun, and good food, is desperately
holders before the purchase is complete. Choosingneeded.
one's ingredients is not something to be rushed in